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"Where is the Big Bend?", a traveler once asked of a Mexican vaquero. Pondering the question the old man responded: "You go south from Fort Davis where the rainbow waits for the rain, where the river is kept in a stone box, and the water runs up hill, and the mountains tower into the sky..." A place like the Big Bend has always existed in our dreams, or at the edge of our consciousness, or in legends such as El Dorado. Not so much as a tangible place but perhaps more as an avatar of the old west. Yet it does exist and can be found at the confluence of the Rio Grande and the Conchos rivers in the extreme southwestern corner of Texas. The Rio Grande, as it flows down from its headwaters in the Colorado Rockies on its way to the Gulf of Mexico, carves a great arc through some of the most spectacular and isolated wilderness remaining in North America. A wilderness filled with vast canyons, high desert and jagged mountains. These natural wonders are just part of what makes the Big Bend such a special place to visit, it is also a haunted land filled with accumulated stories and legends that stretch back over the centuries. Centuries that have seen the arrival of the first Americans over 10,000 years ago, the rise and fall of empires, the establishment of great cattle ranches and finally the return to wilderness. To the Spanish it was the heart of "El Despoblado", the uninhabited land, to the Chisos Apaches it was the center of the world. Perhaps the age of exploitation of this fragile environment is coming to a close and a new age of stewardship and preservation has begun. The Big Bend National Park and its sister parks in the area are a giant step in that direction. This is not an easy land to get to know, but it richly rewards any efforts put forth into understanding it. And it only takes one trip to the south rim of the Chisos Mountains with its beautiful views and overpowering silence or a star filled night haunted by the mournful cry of the coyote for this country to begin to work its way into your heart. Visit the Big Bend and experience it for yourself. |
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